Thursday, September 29, 2016

Salamanca to Calzada de Valdunciel

Distance: 16 km / 9.5 mi

Today is a rest day.

I'm in this small town but the hostel inn keeper is a real friendly person who is going to show to us pilgrims later tonight the church and some other things about this small town.

 It's one of the things I like on this hike. Salamanca was interesting but I felt crowded in by all the people. Although I liked being there, I also became interested in leaving.

 I have been meeting very interesting people, and we keep crossing paths along the Camino. That is also something I really like about this hike. The ability to form, I won't say friendships, but meaningful relationships that exist for the time that they exist.


Sometimes finding the Camino marker can be a challenge.
Sometimes people park their car right in front of the marker. 
The Meseta


In Calzada de Valdunciel the hostel innkeeper was a very gracious person who also took us to the Parish church and showed us the inside of this wonderful building and gave us some history of it. The church was originally built in the twelfth century, later reconstructed in the 16th century and is still used today. You can see from the pictures, many of the beautiful statues of the Virgin and the Saints inside the church. The final picture is of the Camino, headed north towards Zamora. You can see how the Meseta overwhelms a pilgrim.









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From
Four days of solo Camino: walking through the Spanish Meseta
Nic Freeman

The Meseta is the central Spanish tableland, which intersects the Camino Frances between Burgos and Astorga. It is a part of Spain known among pilgrims for its wide skies, dry heat and flat lands, all of which mess with perceptions of time and distance. It is also anticipated as a part of the Camino that is likely to get under your skin, test your mind, confront your heart, and make you wonder a little bit about your connection to this world.

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Tomorrow will be a challenge. It looks to be a 33 kilometer ( 20 mile ) day -- in order to reach Zamora earlier on the following day.  The reason for that is to avoid searching for lodging when I'm considerably more tired.  Early in to Zamora means a shorter hike on that day.  I do have other options and I'll keep them in mind, but tomorrow could be a killer.


San Pedro de Rozado to Salamanca

Distance: 25km / 15 mi

On the hike today I met a person doing the Camino on bicycle. He told me a funny joke about where I was. They call this area the Sea of Castile and Leon, but the joke is that as much as it looks like an unchanging, consistent view ( much like any large body of water), there is no water for this alleged sea.



You can understand how the unchanging, never-ending vista can affect the mind and body. Here are two of my fellow hikers heading up the road to Salamanca.




A small public garden near the hostel where I and a fellow pilgrim took a 1/2 hour nap,  waiting for the hostel to open. I'm sure we looked like homeless to the tourists. 



However we did make it to Salamanca. Here are some pictures of the Cathedral at Salamanca, and some views from the church Tower.







This is Plaza Mayor, a gathering spot for the people of Salamanca. In the evening everything comes alive.  The families come out,  the people gather and every one has a good time.
I took the time to sneak in two pastries,  very good pastries,  and do some people watching.  Then I caught up with fellow pilgrims and stopped in a local restaurant for Paella con Mariscos ( rice with various shell fish and vegetables ).









For some reason on this Camino, I haven't had the deep reflection and personal exploration of previous Caminos. Perhaps I've changed or perhaps someone is changing me. I don't know the answer to that. I only know that this experience is different from the others.

I have decisions to make. In about 5 days I will have the opportunity to continue the Via De La Plata to the end, or instead turn to the West on the Camino Sanabres. Either will be an exploration. I just don't know what I'm going to do yet.



Wednesday, September 28, 2016

Fuenterobles to San Pedro de Rozado

Distance: 29 km / 17.5 mi



It is a killer day ahead. 
It is 7 am and we are getting up to begin an 18 mile day. 
A quarry that we passed along the way.  At first I thought it was a mountain face. 
One of many roman milage markers along the way. 
The day started with an 9 mile hike to Pico de Los Duenos.  A lot of it can tax the unprepared soul. 
Passed this bull as we crossed thru a ranch.  We left him in peace. 
On the way up to Pico de Los Duenos. It is a windmill farm with a special twist. 
And this is Jos, dutchman with whom I had a great day hiking. 


Jos and I doing selfies.
One of a series of crosses being placed by the local priest,  Don Blas, for the pilgrims as a testament to the sacrifice of Christ and the trials of pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago.
Pico de Duenos is also a big windmill farm. 




Cross of Christ, at an altitude of 1150 meters,  the highest point on the Via de La Plata.


Like the scene from Titanic, "Ì'm flying. 
Jos told me about his time in South Africa where he would go to an overlook for Kruger park,  which led a lot like this view to San Pedro de Rozado


Around 15 miles in,  and we still have 3 miles along the road to San Pedro de Rozada to go. 





Some spectacular views. 






From left to right: Justino ( Portugal ), Jos ( Netherlands ), Luna ( Germany ), Beatrix ( Germany ), me, Stanley ( South Korea)
Dinner after a long days hike. Four languages and six people. 






Monday, September 26, 2016

Calzada de Bejar to Fuenterobles

Distance: 20 km / 12 mi


On the road to Fuenterobles
Leaving town was this typical,  for this area,  peregrino memorial.
Typical path of the El Camino
Sunrise
Good morning
My shadow
Typical markers in Castile y Leon


Watering hole for pilgrims
One of the fellow pilgrims bought me my birthday beer. 


The albergue in Fuenterobles is one of the more famous lay overs.  The parish priest,  Don Blas, has taken a special interest in pilgrims. The parish maintains the local albergue and it is of high quality.  The grounds are beautiful in a very rustic way.  The staff,  all volunteers,  are most social.  The dinner last night was fantastic. We had lentil soup,  salad and stacked ribs,  followed by flan.

Iglesia in Fuenterobles
The church has part of the old Roman stone path. 
Life sized wood carvings
St James and I
Praying
From the church tower


The church of Fuenterobles